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The Olvera Chronicles

Olvera is more than just one of Andalusia’s “pueblos blancos”. It’s a vibrant mosaic of lives and stories. With nearly 8000 inhabitants and people from over 42 countries, this  “white village” reveals itself as a remarkably colorful and lively community. “The Olvera Chronicles” is a series of conversations with those who call this hilltop home – locals and newcomers, dreamers and doers – as the village looks ahead to celebrating 700 years of Reconquista in 2027. Through their voices, we uncover what it means to belong, adapt, and find light within the walls of Olvera.

FROM THE STEPPES TO THE SIERRA: AIGUL’S NÓMADA COFFEE BAR

UNDER THE STARS: A CONVERSATION WITH LOLA ROMÁN

From the steppes to the sierra: Aigul's Nómada Coffee Bar

FROM GRAFFITTI TO ABSTRACT EXPRESSION: THE MULTIFACETED WORLD OF MARCOS ÁLVAREZ

SLOW LIVING IN OLVERA: HOW LOUISE AND FRANK CREATED AN ANDALUSIAN RETREAT

aigul

From the steppes to the sierra: Aigul's Nómada Coffee Bar

Tucked away on Calle Vereda Ancha, NÓMADA has become a welcoming spot for expats, locals and curious travelers. Behind the counter is Aigul, originally from Kazakhstan, who brings a fresh perspective to Spain’s coffee culture. Known for exceptional coffee – a far cry for the traditional torrefacto roast – and for baking her own cheesecakes, brownies, almond cakes and other delights, Aigul has turned NÓMADA into more than just a cafetería: it’s a gathering place with an international spirit.

What inspired you to settle in Olvera, of all places?

I met my husband when we were colleagues, and after we started dating, he brought me to Olvera, where he already had a house. From my first visit, I fell in love with the beautiful scenery and the sense of peace here. After years of a hectic lifestyle, I knew this quiet, small town would suit me perfect.

Why did you choose the name of “NÓMADA” for your coffee bar?

Kazakhstan’s people are known as nomads, for centuries, their ancestors lived a pastoral nomadic lifestyle acrosss the vast Eurasian steppe. So i wanted a name that traced my roots. Inevitably it arrived at “NÓMADA”. One other interesting side note that hardly any people seem to know is Kazkhstan’s tulip heritage. It’s the home to over 35 wild tulip species, and several are considered the ancestors of modern cultivated tulips.

Your coffee stands out compared to the traditional Spanish “torrefacto style”. What made you decide to focus on offering high quality coffee?

When I first got here to Olvera, I went around visiting all the bars and quickly realized that there wasn’t a single place serving a great coffee along with artisan pastries. The coffee they offered was “torrefacto style”, which creates an intense harsh bitterness that completely overwhelms the natural flavor. I wanted something completely different. I then partnered with SOTO CAFE, a pioneering speciality coffee roaster in Seville. They offer their clients an educational and high-quality coffee experience. I’m quite happy signing with them.

You bake your own cakes and pastries. Where did you learn your bakery skills? What’s the most popular one amongst your customers?

I actually learned everything myself. At first, I experimented with my mother. Later, I started researching more, looking for recipes, reading about techniques and practising a lot until I got the results I wanted. And as for the most popular pastry? Our “Almond Pastry” is the clear winner. It’s the one that people come back for again and again.

 

Do you feel there’s a cultural exchange happening in your coffee bar?

Absolutely. I feel there’s a beautiful cultural exchange happening every day. People from all over – locals from Olvera, expats who’ve made this town their home and travelers passing through – come together over a cup of coffee. Sometimes I will share a bit of Kazakh culture and people are really interested. Other times, I’m learning about Andalusian customs or someone’s life in another country or hear about the travels they make.

lola

Under the stars: a conversation with Lola Román

Between the stillness of the countryside and the quiet hours of the night Lola Román discovered a world built from words. Her blog “Pensamientos Desordenados” has become a tender corner of the internet where emotion and reflection meet. In this interview she shares how her love of poetry began, the writers who have shaped her voice, and the quiet rituals that keep her writing alive.

When did you first discover your interest in poetry?

First of all, I discovered my love for reading as a child. Through books, I could explore new worlds and incredible stories without leaving my place  - something truly comforting for someone who spent part of her life between the countryside and a boarding school. Later, poetry came into my life through Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer, a writer of the Romantic generation. I was a teenager then. I also read Juan Ramón Jiminez and his well-know “Platero y Yo”.

Do you remember the first poem you ever wrote?

I think I was about twelve when i wrote my first poem. It was for a school poetry contest. I actually won first prize, but sadly, I no longer have the poem. It must have been lost during one of my mother’s cleaning sprees at home.

Do you have any rituals or special moments of the day when you usually write?

My favorite time is in the silence of the night, when everything is calm. Many times i’ve written under the stars, especially in summer. That’s my ideal place. But really, I can write anywhere I feel at peace.

Which books or poets have influenced your style and your view of life the most?

Since I’m self-taught, I’m deeply inspired by writers like Eduardo Galeano – his roots, his simple yet profound reflections on everyday life resonate with me deeply. Someone once told me that my writing carried a certain resemblance to Luis Cernuda’s work. After reading some of his poems, I realized how much I admired his delicate way of expressing feelings and thoughts – with simplicity and sensitivity.

Is there a poem in ” Pensamientos Desordenados” that holds special meaning to you?

Absolutely. In fact, there are many poems on my page Pensamientos Desordenados that are very special to me, especially those that speak of personal experiences and moments I’ve lived through.

 

Do you think everyone can write poetry, or does it require a special sensitivity?

I believe the first thing is to feel the desire to express or to say something that feels important. But it is also essential to have the sensitivity and the gift of being able to convey it through words – to awaken, in turn, the attention and emotion of the reader.  

There’s something deeply human about Lola Román’s relationship with poetry – a search for meaning in silence, in memory, and in the night sky. Her verses are not only confessions but also quiet invitations to pause and feel. Through “Pensamientos Desordenados” , she continues to remind  us that poetry isn’t just written; it’s lived , one thought and one heartbeat at a time.

marcos

From graffiti to abstract expression: the multifaceted world of Marcos Álvarez

Marcos Álvarez is a multifaced artist whose creative path bridges the world of design, street art and abstract painting. Born in 1986 in Seville’s historic Velázquez neighborhood, Álvarez studied Graphic and Interior Design in Barcelona, Seville and Rome; later expanding his practice into photography, illustration, mural painting and experimental music. In 2023, he left his native Seville to settle in Olvera. Since then, he has transformed several corners of the town with his vibrant murals – from the wall behind the library to Avenida Julián Besteiro, and most recently, the mural at the Via Verde de la Sierra Interpretation Centre.

You’ve been living here for nearly three years now, and you’ve already left your mark with several murals. What made you decide to move here and how this encounter with the town and it’s people been?

After years spent in large cities – places that often feel grey and are burdened by heavy pollution – I felt a strong need for nature and the tranquility of a village. The Sierra de Cádiz, with its abundance of natural beauty, and the charming Olvera fitted perfectly into that picture. It wasn’t difficult to adapt here, as the people are very open. I particulary enjoy speaking with the elderly residents and learning about the countryside and agricultural life. For me, living in the present within a village community like this, truly represents the future.

You grew up surrounded by art. Your mother and grandmother were both teachers of artistic disciplines. What did you learn from them that you still keep while painting?

The love and passion for art. They taught me that art is not a subject but a way of seeing the world, instilling in me a deep appreciation for the creative process and the value of constant practice.

You come from Seville, but you’e also lived in cities like Berlin and Amsterdam. What was your experience like?

Berlin and Amsterdam were both briljant stops on my journey. My move to A’dam was an appeal tot he masters, the light and atmoshere that defined Rembrandt and Vermeer. The entire city feels like a museum. I started focusing on painting on canvas and had the opportunity to work with two galleries, which helped me to connect with collectors and develop a more consistent body of work. Berlin is highly attractive to artist. It feels as a global cultural laboratory draning international community with its atmosphere of freedom, experimentation and openness.

How does a mural begin for you? From a concrete idea, or rather from an emotion or intuition?

For me, a mural always begins with an empty wall, a few pots of paint, and a strong desire to feel free while creating. What I mean is that I approach each project with a sense of openness and curiosity. The wall itself becomes a space of exploration. Of course, sometimes clients come with very specific ideas, color palettes, or themes in mind, and i respect that. 

In those cases, my role is to interpret their vision through my own artistic language, finding a balance between their expectations and my creative flow. But even when the concept is predefined, I still look for that moment of freedom – the space where intuition, emotion and spontanity can breathe life into the mural. That’s what keeps the process alive and genuine for me.

finca

Slow living in Olvera : how Luise and Frank created an  Andalusian retreat

Just a short drive from Olvera’s whitewashed streets, surrounded by rolling hills and centuries-old olive trees, lies a tranquil hideaway where peace and nature meet – the finca of Luise and Frank. Originally from Germany, the couple once dreamed of moving to England, but destiny led them south instead. When they discovered Olvera, it was love at first sight. Today, they welcome visitors from around the world to their beautiful property. We sat down with Luise and Frank to talk about their journey and what makes this corner of the Sierra de Cádiz so special.

How does a couple from Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria end up in a tiny “pueblo blanco” in the province of Cádiz?

During our nine-month sabbatical we travelled through Europe with our motorhome. Spain was supposed to be another stop along the road. We kept hearing from travellers we should leave the coast and explore inland. Out of curiosity we followed that advice and that’s how we unexpectedly ended up in Olvera, a beautiful, cute and well-maintained village.

Tell us a bit about your “Finca”. How did you came across it, and what made you fall in love with it?

While exploring the area we heard about a finca that was for sale just outside the village. The moment we arrived we both felt something special. This country property was located in a peaceful setting, surrounded by stunning landscapes. The main house and the two casitas were very well maintained. It had such a calm and relaxing atmosphere. Even though we knew there would be some work to do, that didn’t scare us at all.

You have two charming casitas – Cacahuete and Higo – and a single guest room that goes by the name of Oliva. What inspired those names?

The name of our accomodations are closely tied to the character of the finca and the things we love about living here. Casita Cacahuete takes its name from our beloved dog Peanuts (cacahuete in Spanish). Just like its namesake, this casita is small, warm and full of personality. Perfect for couples looking for a peaceful and romantic escape in the Andalusian country side. Casita Higo is named after the various fig trees that grow across our estate. In late summer, they fill the finca with shade, sweet fruit and the unmistakeable scent of ripe figs. This casita is ideal for a family with up tot wo children who want space to relax, explore nature and enjoy time together. Our guest room Oliva reflects the landscape that surround us. The hills of the region are covered with olive groves, and olive cultivation has shaped life here for generations. Oliva is a comfortable room within our finca itself and is perfect for guests who want a cozy stay while experiencing the authentic rhythm of rural Andalusia.

Who do you typically host?

Our gates are open to everyone, but we find that “El Prado del Sol” tends to attract individuals , couples and families looking to unplug from the digital hum and reconnect with the rhythm of nature. Slow travellers who prefer a local market and a glass of regional wine over a crowded tourist hotspot. So, if you’re looking to experience the heart and soul of traditional Andalusia, you’ve come tot he right place.

What makes your place special for people visiting Olvera and the Sierra de Cádiz?

What makes this place special for visitors to Olvera and the Sierra de Cádiz is that it truly offers the best of both worlds. You stay in a peaceful, authentic white village, yet you’re perfectly positioned to explore some of Andalusia’s most remarkable destinations. Within easy reach are vibrant cities such as Jerez de la Frontera, Cádiz, and Seville. You’ll also find two of the “most beautiful villages in Spain at your doorstep,  Zahara de la Sierra and Setenil de las Bodegas, along with the dreamlike town of Ronda. Nature lovers are equally spoiled, with highlights like the dramatic limestone landscapes of El Torcal de Antequera, the breathtaking cliffside path of Caminito del Rey, and the lush mountain scenery of the Sierra de Grazalema. For those seeking adventure, there’s cycling along the Vía Verde de la Sierra, paragliding in Algodonales, and paddleboarding on the Embalse de Zahara-El Gastor. And then there’s the food: from the renowned Queso Payoyo to Iberian ham tastings at La Umbría Ibérico Ecológico, and local specialties like “sopa pega,” best enjoyed with a glass of Lagar Ambrosio wine. So forget the idea of being in the middle of nowhere. On the contrary, you’re getting VIP access to some of the most postcard-perfect locations in all of Andalusia.

Where can people find more information or book a stay?

If you’re looking for a peaceful getaway to recharge, you are more than welcome at our sanctuary, 'El Prado del Sol'". Check out what we have to offer at https://www.elpradodelsol.es

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